Days One and Two: Machrihanish to Campbeltown (31.8 miles)
Travel from Perth to Machrihanish took most of a windy day, so I walked only three miles to a sheltered pitch on the first evening. Sadly, this was to be the best pitch I found in Kintyre. Note that I hiked the Way in the wrong direction so these notes refer to Sections Seven then Six in the description on the Kintyre Way website.
Innean Glen is glorious but it lies just outside a nature reserve which had many spring flowers and impressively slumped cliffs. Lime-rich geology is the reason for designating this coastline as a reserve. The zigzagging waymarkers took some spotting in the mist.
The road bash to the south coast was too long for my taste but quiet. To be honest, I was more impressed by the shellduck in a rockpool than by the hermits’ caves and St Someone’s footprints. Rocks here appear to have relatives in America. Did they form before the Appalachians and the Atlantic split Southend from Basin Street?
Let’s just say the Southend Campsite has issues and move on. A lovely stretch of coastal walking followed, taking me through ageing but entertaining caravan sites. Look out for the Ark.
Another road bash follows the coastal jewel and this is a long one. The scenery is good, with views to Arran, and, if this was a footpath, I’d recommend it. But it’s a road and it robbed me of the enthusiasm needed for an Island Davaar visit.