The End

From Strabeg bothy to Wick

Strabeg is one of those bothies with plumbing. Allegedly, indoor ablutions are possible with judicious application of a bucket of water. For this reason, the collection of drinking water from the river directly below the bothy is unwise. Personally, I much prefer simpler bothies. A table by a window is all the furniture needed.

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Although the bog between the bothy and the road was fairly dry, I had been lucky to get my bike through without taking a dip in the nastiest bit so I made a wide loop on the way back to the stone-walled field where sheep graze. A little while later, I was pedalling the short distance to Tongue and a convivial evening with friends.

Next morning was wet but, crucially, for the first time, the wind was on my back so I set off for Wick and the end of my circuit of the Northern Highlands. In nice weather the loop through Skerray is gorgeous and unmissable. Today, though, I just wanted to finish off my tour. Instead, the hills on the road to Bettyhill nearly finished me off. They were demanding in the poor weather.

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Loch Calder

However, after Bettyhill the hills got gentler and the weather improved. Reaching Bettyhill had been tough but the tailwind and regular snack stops, the best on a fisherman’s seat above Loch Calder, saw me reaching Watten with gas in the tank. My Thorn xTc is a substantial piece of steel. Nevertheless, the last eight miles went by at a decent lick.

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I had not gone to John o’Groats, preferring to get home and finish the tour instead, which doesn’t mean the North Coast 500 is a bad ride. Far from it. It’s possibly, with the modifications I rode, Britain’s best cycle tour. It’s just that I’m not Britain’s best cycle tourist. I hadn’t prepared properly and so the route took ages. The North Coast 500 is a route for riders with miles in the legs, the section from Applecross to Scourie being likely to hurt anyone who is out of shape thanks to a lengthy succession of steep hills. But prepare properly and a ride from Inverness, down the Great Glen, out to Ardnamurchan, joining the North Coast 500 after a visit to Skye, is as good as it gets. The scenery is staggeringly beautiful and the friendliness and courtesy of most of the drivers I met was a very pleasant surprise.

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Noss Head is worth a visit

My next task, one I suspect I’ll enjoy, is completing the tour properly by following the NCN Route 1 variant to John o’Groats via Orkney. At my current rate of progress, I’ll be getting back to you on that subject maybe in October.

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