Tens of thousands of midges exerted a noticeable pressure on exposed skin as I took the tent down. The couple of bites sustained were a testament to the power of Smidge. As soon as I reached the road, a headwind sprang up. Then it began to rain. Not an auspicious beginning to a day, which, amazingly, was brilliant.
The road to Syre shows Flow country at its best and the road onward to Altnaharra was even prettier, although the traffic was quite heavy. At Altnaharra, I could have gone directly to Tongue but the riding was so good, I decided to head on to Hope. More gorgeous riding and great views of Ben Hope.
At Syre I had had a good chat with a Lands End to John o’ Groats walker. Two oncoming cyclists didn’t stop to chat but, in fairness, they were going downhill with a following wind. On the Hope road I met two pairs of cyclists, the first fast day cyclists, who twice caught me snacking, and the second were fully loaded tourers heading I know not where.
The hill up from Hope was harder than I remembered but the descent was brilliant. I went along the coast lane and up through the woods to my friends’ croft. Great welcome and a nice way to end two fabulous days of cycling. The Watten, Westerdale, Altnabreac, Forsinain, Kinbrace, Syre, Altnaharra, Hope route offers a scenic tour of Britain’s remotest roads. Gorgeous.