Apigill and the Flow Country, again

Approached from the east, Apigill Hill had never been quite as daunting as it had been when climbing from the Borgie River.  However, this time, after a gorgeous ride from Kinbrace Station, I was floating upwards.  On a loaded Thorn xTc, my progress was steady, to put it kindly, but entirely free from lactate.  With no one able to accuse me of needing a rest, I had no qualms about stopping to take photos.

A realisation dawned.  I was nearly 10kg lighter than I had been when living just a few miles from the big hill.  There lies the beauty of retirement.  Consistency is possible in a way that it never can be when work is exhausting and plagued by meetings which go on into the early evening.

My previous best at sticking to a training effort had been four weeks on the surprisingly excellent Lance Armstrong Performance Program.  One retailer at Amazon UK currently has that book on sale for a penny, which suggests most people are unwilling to remember that Lance occasionally did good things.  As far as my own programme of pre-breakfast physical jerks and a wholefood diet is concerned, I’ve managed almost a year so far and the consistency appears to be paying off.

Back to the riding.  The weekend in Tongue was highly enjoyable but Monday morning meant battling into a stiff wind on the way back to the train at Lairg.  I stopped too often for photos and then lost more time fighting the wind on the endless climb from Altnaharra to The Crask.  Once over the top, I had to put the hammer down or miss the train.  I arrived with 15 minutes to spare.  Then the train was another 15 minutes late.  And if I had been late, the train would have been on time!

All of the photos were taken with a 50mm lens.  No wide angle shots.  This is pretty much what Flow Country looks like.

Between Kinbrace and Syre
Loch Badanloch under a big sky
It was a long way up from Strath Naver
And there is still a bit more to do
The summit, where granite ribs run through the psammite
Loch Loyal, east of the ben with the same name
Loch Loyal
Ben Hope from the south east
Near Altnaharra with Ben Griam More peeping over the moors
Ben Klibreck

The Skerray Loop and Apigill Hill

Riding along a coastline usually means crossing valleys. Between each valley is a climb, followed by a descent which gives away all of the altitude you’ve worked so hard to gain. On the north coast of Scotland, one of the toughest hills is Apigill. One hundred and fifty metres of ascent followed immediately by the same amount of descent. Before that struggle, however, was the gorgeous Skerray loop.

Although too late for well-lit photos, I was able to enjoy looking down on Coldbackie’s sandy beach and looking up to the impressive, conglomerate buttresses of Watch Hill. Jeremy Clarkson once parked a Landrover on its summit. The views from Ben Tongue and Watch Hill, out over the Rabbit Islands, are vast, which may be why these hills appealed to the Top Gear crew.

The Skerray Loop and Apigill Hill
Coldbackie beach.jpg
Coldbackie beach
The Black Lochan and Watch Hill from the south
View from Watch Hill

Past Coldbackie is the turn to Skullomie, where a short walk to the abandoned crofts at Sleiteil begins. Sleiteil is an island of green in a sea of heathery bog. It must stand out to migrating birds as I have seen whoopers and dotterel here. Sleiteil offers excellent, not so wild pitches. No access for sea kayaks though because of the beach’s rocky fangs.

Hiking to Sleiteil.jpg
Hiking to Sleiteil
Sleiteil beach

The road to Skerray runs across moors with rocks, bogs and heather before becoming more enclosed at Modsary, as the sign spells it. Here, a small, excitable, beagle type of thing chased me with surprising speed. I stopped and the dog began looking sheepish. A no through road leads to Skerray Pier and a harbour sheltered by Neave Island. It’s a very beautiful spot and well worth deviating from the shortest route along the north coast. The ride back to the main road, past Torrisdale Beach, is arguably more scenic than the ride into Skerray.

The Skerray road.jpg
The road to Skerray
Neave Island.jpg
Neave Island


Skerray harbour
Between Coldbackie and Skerray
Skerray coastline

The coastline from Coldbackie to Invernaver is an outstanding short expedition for any backpacker prepared to explore. Some bits need care but the whole coastline is stunning and the locals are friendly.

The Skerray Loop rejoins the main road near the western entrance to the Borgie Forest. A short way down the forest road, at the first car park, is a Millennium project consisting of a spiral path which passes through a Celtic alphabet of trees. I’ve never seen anyone else appreciating it but, in my opinion, it’s worth a look.

Enough prevarication. Apigill Hill. OK, I had been taking things easily. Nevertheless, I was astonished to reach the summit with barely a trace of lactate in my leg muscles. I’ve cycled this hill more than a dozen times since retirement and this was my easiest ever ascent. It seems that pre-brekky physical jerks have improved my fitness. I certainly can’t claim to have been getting the miles in on the bike.

View from Bettyhill store.jpg
View from the Bettyhill store

The Bettyhill Store provided a pie and a pint of milk as well as a chat with a delivery driver who enjoyed cycling. After that, it was a question of covering the ground and deciding where to spend the night.

An undistinguished high point provided 360 degree views of the most northerly Corbetts and Ben Hope around to Morven and on to Dunnet Head and Hoy. I could see a huge cruise ship giving passengers a close up of the Old Man and St Johns Head. At Armadale is the winner of the 2015 Scottish Sheep Farm of the Year and, if you have the time, the lighthouse at Strathy Point is worth visiting.

Portskerra is worth a side trip

Crossing the bridge over the river at Melvich, I noticed something fishing so I stopped. Two otters were diving repeatedly and having plenty of success. After five minutes they disappeared. Maybe they had become tired of my nosiness.

My next stop and chat was at Reay Store. A young cycle tourist who had been on Orkney, a possible destination for me, praised Brown’s Hostel in Stromness but said he was holing up for two days in Tongue Youth Hostel because of forecasted 45 mph winds. Deciding home was best if the weather was going to get excessively boisterous, I headed south at Westfield past Lochs Calder, Scarmclate and Watten for a brief stop at Tesco before going home.

A 70 mile day with no trace of hunger knock, also known as hypoglycaemia. My fat metabolism must be improving. Cutting out sugary things and working out first thing in the morning is paying off. Highly recommended, as is the Skerray Loop.

Rainy days and Fridays

Tens of thousands of midges exerted a noticeable pressure on exposed skin as I took the tent down. The couple of bites sustained were a testament to the power of Smidge. As soon as I reached the road, a headwind sprang up. Then it began to rain. Not an auspicious beginning to a day, which, amazingly, was brilliant.

The road to Syre shows Flow country at its best and the road onward to Altnaharra was even prettier, although the traffic was quite heavy. At Altnaharra, I could have gone directly to Tongue but the riding was so good, I decided to head on to Hope. More gorgeous riding and great views of Ben Hope.

Um, Mackay Country.jpg
Guess which country

At Syre I had had a good chat with a Lands End to John o’ Groats walker. Two oncoming cyclists didn’t stop to chat but, in fairness, they were going downhill with a following wind. On the Hope road I met two pairs of cyclists, the first fast day cyclists, who twice caught me snacking, and the second were fully loaded tourers heading I know not where.

Ben Klibreck
The Hope road.jpg
The Hope road
Loch Meadie.jpg
Ben Hope from Loch Meadie

The hill up from Hope was harder than I remembered but the descent was brilliant. I went along the coast lane and up through the woods to my friends’ croft. Great welcome and a nice way to end two fabulous days of cycling. The Watten, Westerdale, Altnabreac, Forsinain, Kinbrace, Syre, Altnaharra, Hope route offers a scenic tour of Britain’s remotest roads. Gorgeous.

The Kyle causeway and Ben Loyal.jpg
Kyle of Tongue causeway
Ben Loyal.jpg
Ben Loyal

The Strade Bianche of Caithness

Fabulous riding. Sunshine and a following wind. Not too much traffic on the back road to Loch Watten, where an encampment in the picnic area delayed my first snack. A big tent was being used as an awning extension for a gaudy camper van.

Flow Country.jpg
Sketch map showing the route of a stunning, three day cycle tour

After a second snack stop at Westerdale Mill, I reached the dirt roads, which had many dragonflies. At lovely Loch Keise (third snack stop) was a fishing boat with oars labelled Wandsworth Youth River Club Putney. I photographed Aultnabreac railway station and then headed off across the nature reserve. The RSPB have a permanent warden with a caravan in a corner just off the main dirt road.

Westerdale Mill.jpg
The mill at Westerdale
The inevitable…
Loch More.jpg
From Loch More to Forsinain is 16 miles on a dirt road
I hate these gates.jpg
Lifting a loaded bike through these gates is not easy
Riding these roads is not difficult.jpg
Easy riding and plenty of dragonflies
Loch Keise.jpg
Loch Keise
A remote railway station.jpg
A useful railway station
A sheltered bit.jpg
One of the few sheltered bits after the level crossing
The three gates open easily.jpg
There are three unlocked gates

A bit of a headwind on the drag to Kinbrace became a tailwind on the Syre road as the landscape was reddened by the setting sun. I just got to a pitch behind Rimsdale croft before darkness fell.

Not long till sunset.jpg
Evening light on the moors
Rimsdale croft.jpg
Rimsdale croft
Even closer to sunset.jpg
The end of a perfect day

The End

From Strabeg bothy to Wick

Strabeg is one of those bothies with plumbing. Allegedly, indoor ablutions are possible with judicious application of a bucket of water. For this reason, the collection of drinking water from the river directly below the bothy is unwise. Personally, I much prefer simpler bothies. A table by a window is all the furniture needed.


Although the bog between the bothy and the road was fairly dry, I had been lucky to get my bike through without taking a dip in the nastiest bit so I made a wide loop on the way back to the stone-walled field where sheep graze. A little while later, I was pedalling the short distance to Tongue and a convivial evening with friends.

Next morning was wet but, crucially, for the first time, the wind was on my back so I set off for Wick and the end of my circuit of the Northern Highlands. In nice weather the loop through Skerray is gorgeous and unmissable. Today, though, I just wanted to finish off my tour. Instead, the hills on the road to Bettyhill nearly finished me off. They were demanding in the poor weather.

Loch Calder

However, after Bettyhill the hills got gentler and the weather improved. Reaching Bettyhill had been tough but the tailwind and regular snack stops, the best on a fisherman’s seat above Loch Calder, saw me reaching Watten with gas in the tank. My Thorn xTc is a substantial piece of steel. Nevertheless, the last eight miles went by at a decent lick.


I had not gone to John o’Groats, preferring to get home and finish the tour instead, which doesn’t mean the North Coast 500 is a bad ride. Far from it. It’s possibly, with the modifications I rode, Britain’s best cycle tour. It’s just that I’m not Britain’s best cycle tourist. I hadn’t prepared properly and so the route took ages. The North Coast 500 is a route for riders with miles in the legs, the section from Applecross to Scourie being likely to hurt anyone who is out of shape thanks to a lengthy succession of steep hills. But prepare properly and a ride from Inverness, down the Great Glen, out to Ardnamurchan, joining the North Coast 500 after a visit to Skye, is as good as it gets. The scenery is staggeringly beautiful and the friendliness and courtesy of most of the drivers I met was a very pleasant surprise.

Noss Head is worth a visit

My next task, one I suspect I’ll enjoy, is completing the tour properly by following the NCN Route 1 variant to John o’Groats via Orkney. At my current rate of progress, I’ll be getting back to you on that subject maybe in October.

From Ullapool to Strabeg Bothy

Thursday 12 May

Alarm went off at 6am and I was away within two hours. There were hints of wind but the early start paid off. Two hours with very little traffic and great views of Ben More Coigach and Stac Pollaidh. I caught up with another cycle tourer and turned west, down wind, a little later. It was a lovely ride along below Stac Pollaidh.

Stac Pollaidh
Stac Pollaidh
My favourite boulder with Suilven forming the skyline
Knoll and lochan country
Knolls and lochans on the way to Lochinver

A fairly lengthy climb led up from the junction for Lochinver. At the top I saw the boulder I had used previously for foreground for a shot of Suilven. Then I lost all the height I had gained on the way to the foot of the next climb. That’s how the ride continued to Lochinver and beyond. The scenery was sensational. Knolls, lochans and crystal clear rivers. Not a whole lot in Lochinver. I asked about camping at the Tourist Information and then headed on, over two more fairly big hills, to Clachtoll. The campsite turned out to be pretty good and had wifi. I downloaded some podcasts and streamed some jazz.

Friday 13 May

The dreaded Drumbeg road! It was gorgeous if tough, with the climbs starting right from the campsite. Up through Stoer, down to Clashnessie beach and then back up and down to Drumbeg. After Drumbeg, which had three cafés I didn’t need, the serious climbs started. Only one made me walk. I had to stop near the bottom of a long hill to let a campervan go by and the handle bar jabbed into my nipple, which illustrated the road’s steepness. I wasn’t going to get riding again so I pushed. The land north of Quinag was sensational. Green birches in a drift across brown heather. Wood sorrel under the birches.

Lunch near the Kylescu bridge

The main road arrived unexpectedly. I had ridden the Drumbeg road. It was lunchtime so first item on the agenda was finding a quiet spot. However, I was feeling tired and the big, sweeping, curved climbs weren’t what I needed, particularly with the headwind. Scourie took a while to come.

I wasn’t feeling great. Not eating well enough so I went to the campsite cafeteria for haddock and chips. Excellent and a good night’s sleep followed

Saturday 14 May

Despite the improved recovery regime, the day’s first climb felt hard. After that, life improved. The road seemed mostly downhill to Laxford Bridge. On the way, I cycled by a man who was walking along the road with a rucksack on his back. Don’t know why. The scenery, particularly the view of Ben Stack, is fab but there are better places to walk. The next climb went more easily than the first despite a headwind and Rhiconich arrived sooner than expected. Two men were doing up the information board, now known as a Geopod. We got talking about the area. One of the men, Murdo, had a great knowledge and really liked to talk. Probably another retired teacher. Each story we told reminded the other of another. It was quite hard to get away, as much my fault as Murdo’s. Still, I was in no rush. The climb out of Rhiconich is big but fair. The top soon arrived. On the way, I went by a man and two small children loading peats into bags. The kids had their own mini overalls, just like dad’s. A long descent past a travellers’ well brought me to a bridge and a real fight along the Kyle, into the wind. Durness took its time arriving.

Beinn Spionnaidh
Beinn Spionnaidh, the most northerly Corbett

In Durness I bought food for the bothy and ate a baked potato with tuna mayo. Vegetables! Oh how I missed them! The sunshine turned the sea bright blue for the ride to the head of Loch Eriboll. White waves and golden sand made the Sango beaches as glorious as ever. The hoped for tailwind didn’t materialise but the road along Loch Eriboll is mostly downhill. On the way I encountered the North Coast 500 Independence Rally. A mere 200 cars with flags coming the other way along a single track road. Luckily, they were friendly. The track to the bothy was unrideable and half of it was bog. Last year, it would have been awful but this year it was fairly dry. Nevertheless, I was pooped when I finally reached the bothy.

Strabeg Bothy
Strabeg Bothy with Cranstackie behind
Strath Beag and Foinaven
Strath Beag is impressive, well worth a visit, but not by bicycle

Bealach na Ba

First, two confessions

I’ve been a very silly boy.  My screen looked so good after cleaning that I sprayed the same cleaner on to my keyboard.  The keyboard now looks wonderful but crucial keys no longer work.  Firing a spray containing water and solutes at an unsealed keyboard is very silly.  I should have known.  Please learn from my mistake.

Then my old keyboard and newer iMac refused to pair.  Today, they changed their Bluetooth mind.  I don’t know why but I’m glad that I will not have to buy a new keyboard after all.

The second confession concerns my ride around the North Coast 500.  I should have restarted from the train station at Kyle of Lochalsh.  However, I was unsure whether I was fit enough for the climb up Bealach na Ba, Britain’s highest road pass.  Also, traffic had been unpleasantly heavy between the Kyle and Plockton before my half time break.  To the north of Plockton is a spectacular lane high above the sea and beneath an impressive cliff but I had ridden from Plockton to Lochcarron two years ago and decided that compromising the ride up Bealach na Ba with a second viewing was not worth while.  I restarted from Strath Carron railway station.

Will the circle be unbroken? No.

The diary

I eased up the climb out of Lochcarron with a stop to change to less warm clothing being needed half way up. The descent to Loch Kishorn was pretty and rural, a contrast with rocky Beinn Bhan opposite. I munched a bit of pork pie and then started off up the big hill. Initially, the gradient was kind so, despite the traffic, I was able to enjoy the climb. Boy, was there some traffic! Motorbikes, camper vans, more camper vans, cars and a few cyclists.

Bealach na Ba
In need of a polariser on Bealach na Ba

The road steepened when it entered the corrie but was still rideable. Big rock walls framed the view back down to the sea. The zig zags near the top proved rideable so, to my surprise, I ascended the highest pass in Britain without having to get off and push. To complete an excellent day, I needed only a safe descent and a pitch for my tent in Applecross and these were duly delivered.

The Clyde Valley bikers arrived on big, loud machines. First an advance guard and then hoards. Then my guts decided they objected to something I had done to them so they bloated and demanded several trips to the bog. Then the wind picked up and rain hammered the new tent. Somehow a decent kip followed but the puddles round the tent this morning should not have come as a surprise. Unlike the bikers’ pre-seven start to the day.

Sunday 8 May

As I wheeled my bicycle through the campsite everyone seemed to want to talk. The atmosphere was very friendly. One woman warned me that the coast road would be as difficult as the Bealach and she was not wrong. I headed south to investigate the shop, which turned out to be shut and quirky. Someone’s garage had been converted. It reminded me of the little shops on the side of people’s homes in the Philippines. Heading north was initially pleasant. I photographed Sand, where a TV programme had been made and headed on into an increasingly hilly landscape. A knot of vehicles scattered across the road had me worrying about an accident but it was just a bunch of tourists photographing Highland cows.

Careful cropping so this looks like a remote location for filming

The road climbed to a rushy lochan where I stopped for a snack. Inevitably, a tourist car stopped to see why I had stopped. There is no solitude in tourist country. I can hardly wait to get back to backpacking from one wild pitch to the next. Rounding the corner to go beside Loch Torridon, the road became taxing. Plunge down to a bridge and the drive to someone’s home then back up a one in five to regain the lost height. Over and over again. A couple of times, I found myself roughly 500 feet above the sea with no recollection of a climb that might have got me that high. Luckily there were trees as the wind was now a headwind. Unluckily, there were trees so every descent needed care. A campervan could have been hidden behind the foliage. Leaves on trees were a stark contrast to the canopies when I had started this ride.

The Applecross to Shieldaig road undulates a bit

Eventually, Shieldaig arrived. The single track ended, allowing cars to hurry by without waiting for a passing place. Sadly, the shelter from the wind had gone and the wind was strengthening. Torridon would be enough. No way was I going to battle that wind up the glen. I pitched and went for a meal at the inn. OK food. Good service, and a pay off next morning, when I actually felt energetic.

Monday 9 May

The headwind was still blowing. I decided to use bottom cog and ease my way into it. The tactic worked. I pulled over for every car and took some photos, although I was already too late for the best light. The sky was cloudless blue. If Spring had arrived yesterday, today is Summer. The Whistle Stop cafe was irresistible even though I could feel the effect of eating real food yesterday evening. The tea was leafy and came in a pot with a strainer and the scone was excellent so I was almost happy to pay over £4 for my snack. They also provided me with the Telegraph to read. A dashed good cafe.

The Torridon Road
The Torridon road

After changing into shorts, I set off for Gairloch. The ride beside Loch Maree was quick now that the wind was on my back. A climb brought me to roadworks which advertised a 10 minute delay. I spoke to the young man with the stop / go sign and warned him that I would be slower than the cars to clear the roadworks. I also mentioned the incident on the way to Ft Augustus and he said the workers there were arseholes. “You’ll get more respect on this side of the country.” And I did. The descent after the road works was gorgeous and quickly dropped me into Gairloch. I stopped at the pier shop to get money from their machine and for an ice cream and then headed up over the hill to the rest of the town. I called in at the information centre and at McColls as much to get out of the heat as for any other reason. Then I climbed up and over to Poolewe, with its big rapid where the river enters the sea. Up and over to another branch of Loch Ewe and then up and over again to Aultbea. Not much to stop me at Aultbea so I pressed on and came to a halt at a campsite on the beach at Laide. Very well tended and friendly.

A proper bike
A proper bike for touring

First shower stone cold. The pilot light had gone out. Rinsed clothing and got it nearly dry in a spin dryer. Fabulous evening with views beyond Quinag.

Tuesday 10 May

Hills over headlands made the start seem tough. Bit of a headwind too. After Second Coast, the scenery became beautiful, thanks to woodland. A big climb from a river wasn’t the one I could see from the Laide campsite. That was much bigger and curved round directly into the wind. The big descent past the Northern Lights campsite almost needed pedalling down and the ride up Little Loch Broom was very tough. I stopped by some woods for a snack and then headed up the day’s biggest climb. Once out of the trees, the wind became horrible. Great views with pure white snow in the corries standing out against a blue sky but the slog ruined it. Finally Braemore arrived. My phone’s GPS claims I got near 40mph. Unlikely, but it was a nice descent and there was just enough wind on my back to bring Ullapool into view quite quickly. Soon, I was pitched and scoffing fish and chips.

I had a rest day in Ullapool. You can get enough of fighting into a headwind on a hot day.  Met a Swiss guy on the Cape Wrath Trail having a day off thanks to a swollen Achilles’ tendon and a cyclist having a day on the bus to get his rear wheel repaired in Dingwall.

To Ardnamurchan and beyond

A long, narrow, no through road leads to Ardnamurchan, the most westerly point on the British mainland.  Fortunately, a ferry from Tobermory to Kilchoan makes an out and back ride unnecessary, apart from the last six miles.  I left the Glen Nevis camp site with a new tent in the panniers and headed for the ferry across Loch Linnhe to Camusnagaul.  In the following days, headwinds led to exhaustion.  Clearly unready for Bealach na Ba, I decided on a half time break at Kyle of Lochalsh and took the train home.

Diary quotes explain what happened.

Saturday 16 April

Odd sort of a day, weatherwise, but great cycling. Ferry across Loch Linnhe also held Austin from Washington, a Cascades walker, who was starting the Cape Wrath Trail. I talked too much but he didn’t seem to mind.

Big Ben from across the loch
The Ben

Lovely pedalling down the quiet road but no leaves and few wild flowers this time. Sunny and cold in the main with an occasional cloud and some spits of cold precipitation. The main road stretch after Corran wasn’t nice because of aggressive drivers passing very close. Turning uphill on the narrow road to Kilmalieu was a relief.

Very nice, open country near a loch, an adventure centre and then a road squeezed between the sea and cliffs. I passed a female cyclist and saw great crested grebes. Kingairloch was gorgeous. I took photos of it and from it. The female cyclist was there before me, having a snack. It was her day off from the Abernethy Centre. She told me that Elastic Cottage got its name from a family which grew and grew but never outgrew the cottage.


The church is  neat little thing with a bell rope dangling down the front, which must tempt all children who visit. The climb up the big hill went quite easily despite the headwind and soon I was hammering down the single track main road to Lochaline. Quite a bit of traffic and a nastyish final rise before Lochaline, which I just can’t bring myself to like, even on a second visit. Over to Fishnish on the ferry then easily down to Craignure for the eccentric campsite. Quite breezy and still fairly cold.

Sunday 17 April

Lazy day of showers. I became engrossed in Chris McDougall’s book, Natural Born Heroes, and didn’t move till lunch, which I took at the Inn. The burger was pretty good but the beer was way overpriced. Good evening in the common room with Sylvain and Thomas from France, who were determined firemakers. They won over damp kindling in the end.

Monday 18 April

The predicted headwind arrived. It was going to be a hard day. In the end I decided to go straight up the main road to Tobermory, arriving just in time for the 1300hrs ferry. But I needed food so had to get the next one. The ferry ride was entertaining. In mid channel, sea water came in through the scuppers on to the car dark, wetting much of it then returning through the scuppers.

Not the best day on Mull
Looking downwind on Mull
Ardnamurchan lighthouse
Ardnamurchan lighthouse

On landing, I became aware of changes to the area since my last visit. Many new buildings. I battled out to the lighthouse, took some pictures and then set off back along the peninsula. It was hard going, up and down, past Ben Hiant, where the camping didn’t look great, to Glenborrowdale’s excellent bunkhouse. It’s good to be clean, dry and warm after such a hard day.

View east from ther lighthouse
View from near the lighthouse
Roadside vegetation
Glenborrowdale roadside vegetation

Tuesday 19 April

Despite an excellent evening in the Ardnamurchan Bunkhouse, my legs felt weak this morning so I dawdled along to Salen and then dawdled some more to Loch Ailort. It was lovely riding till the big road, which wasn’t all that bad, really. Sunny weather and light winds helped a lot. Very hungry, which I attribute to recovery from yesterday. Back on the Invercaimbe site after a two year gap. Big dog now ashes as is the owner’s horse and brother. She said the horse got by far the best urn.

To promote recovery, I made myself eat a packet of noodles I’d been carrying, off and on, for a year. The result was a troubling dose of heart palpitations. MSG is not good for an exhausted body. Full recovery being unlikely overnight, a rest day seemed destined.

Eigg from the campsite
Eigg from Invercaimbe campsite


Rum from the campsite
Rum from the campsite

Wednesday 20 April

Laundry done, I wandered into Arisaig to shop. Back at the campsite, I read and ate the gloriously sunny afternoon and evening away. Skye tomorrow.

Thursday 21 April

Tough day. Fabulous evening. A repeat of a ride I hadn’t enjoyed 2 years ago made worse by a stiff headwind as far as Broadford. Hills needed cycling down. Just making the ferry at Mallaig was the day’s first bit of luck but it meant buying overpriced, none too pleasant food at a little shop near Armadale. And I then didn’t eat enough which made the traditional accommodation problem in Kyle seem like a disaster. Tried cycling to Strathcarron via Plocton but the traffic was not good. Headed over a stiff hill for a campsite at Balmacarra only to discover it wasn’t open. So, evening train out to somewhere.

Red Cuillins
Red Cuillin

Eating put everything into perspective. Achnasheen bunkhouse! So I enjoyed the stunning scenery of Loch Carron with its many reefs, coves and islets and then relished the open glen above Achnashellach with its plethora of camping possibilities. No worries though as the bunkhouse is open so I’m showered and enjoying tea. Just a shame so many people spoke to me when I was hypo. They can’t have been impressed.

Death of an Akto

My old Akto was inevitably going to fail sometime soon as its flysheet was showing clear signs of UV damage but my mistake hastened its end.  Regrets?  A few, but mainly I was glad it had failed in Glen Nevis, near a choice of gear shops, rather than on Mull.

This had been my second Akto and I did not like it as much as I had liked the first because of the arch over the door.  My first, simpler Akto had lacked this feature.  Sooner or later, complexity tends to cause problems with backpacking equipment, usually at the worst possible moment, and that arch did cause a couple of problems.  However, this post is about my mistake, not Hilleberg’s.  Let’s just say I wasn’t completely distraught when the flysheet tore catastrophically.


What did I do wrong?  Tightened the guylines before walking away from the tent.  I had woken to sleet and low snow on Ben Nevis just opposite the campsite.  After only two days of cycling from Tain, I did not need a rest day but I did not fancy cycling in the prevailing conditions so I sorted out the tent, put on my waterproofs and hiked into town for some serious nutrition.


At about the halfway point on my hilly walk the rain stopped and a little later the sun came out. The day warmed up and the vegetation started to steam.  By the time I reached Fort William, I was wishing I had put on sunscreen.  The temptation to go back to the tent, pack up and cycle down to the Mull ferry at Lochaline was not strong enough to overcome the fact that I had already paid for another night on the campsite.  Instead, I had a good lunch then walked back to the campsite.


The sun had completely dried my tent and tightened the fabric and guys.  The tension had been great enough to tear the black end of the flysheet almost completely off.  The damage was far too great for repair.  I salvaged the good bits – the poles, pegs and footprint before putting the rest of the tent into the bin.  Nearer home, I would have cut the groundsheet off the previously damaged inner and retained that too but there was a limit to how much I was prepared to haul round the North Coast 500.

I hiked back into town and bought a Wild Country Zephyros 1.  Perhaps not an exceptional tent but great value.  Once back home, a quick scan of my Photos album revealed numerous images of my Trailstar and Golite Cave but very few of the Akto.  It seems I never did take to that second Akto.

Down the Great Glen

The SUSTRANS web site is not a favourite of mine.  Usability, particularly on smallish phones, doesn’t appear to have been a priority for the developers.  However, the OS map showed that my route was using NCN 1 into Inverness and bits of NCN 78 onward towards Fort Bill.

The first section, via pleasant lanes to Dingwall was fine but the section between Dingwall and Inverness isn’t great.  It uses cycle paths beside dual carriageways and climbs long, shallow, pleasureless hills through OK scenery.  Till North Kessock I was just making miles.  North Kessock’s promenade and the steep climb on to the bridge were the highlights of this stretch.

Once over the big bridge, I headed for the River Ness and followed it through town.  My intention was to repeat a route I had used back in the 80s down the south side of Loch Ness.  Thanks to heavy traffic on the B862, Dores Road, and a damaged NCN 78 signpost things worked out a little differently.

Rolling stones

You’ll have gathered that I was underwhelmed by the cycling so far.  My opinion was to change.  NCN 78 shows the Great Glen at its best and is well worth researching even if that does mean doing battle with the SUSTRANS website.  NCN 78 avoids the first part of the Dores Road and I wish I had known that as the B862 was busy and fairly narrow.

Where NCN 78 rejoins the road, life improved.  First a cycle path got me off the busy road and then a quiet lane took me away from the traffic.  The lane brought me to a T junction where the NCN signpost had been rotated on its pole.  The obvious route was back to the B862.  It looked as if that way would have me in Dores in just a few minutes.  But there was something about the left turn which drew me on.  Maybe it would offer a quieter route to Loch Ness.

It didn’t.  It climbed beautifully and brutally, through native woodlands and by the McBain Memorial Park, for about 600 feet of ascent.  The top came at a cross roads near Loch Ashie, where a cold headwind made itself known.  A section of moorland brought me back to the B862 high above Dores.  I had no intention of dropping down to the loch, where I had been told that camping was possible.  A littered pitch with fire rings wasn’t what I wanted so I headed on, towards Fort Augustus.

And I might have made it but for some roadworks.  Twenty minute delays were advertised so, after an unsatisfactory conversation with the young man holding up the traffic, I pushed my bike up into a plantation.  Confident that no one else would be visiting my chosen piece of forestry, I found a side track and pitched on it.  Only a roe deer objected.

Forest pitch

The condensation on my tent next morning was astonishing.  Aktos used to have a reputation for internal dampness until backpackers realised the Laser was worse but I had never seen anything like this before.  And the drizzle was surprisingly cold.  The conditions were too much for my camera.  It refused to work, unlike the construction crew, who had been audible since just after dawn.  I snapped a shot of the tent with my phone and headed down to find out how long the road workers were planning to hold me up this time.

Not at all, as it happened.  The light turned green as I reached the road.  However, things still weren’t great.  Outside the forest, the precipitation was sleety and my cycling clothes felt inadequate.  Also, the road works went on for two miles.  I was unable to get between the lights while they were on green and so I had to edge past big machines doing dangerous things.  The arseholes on this project had not given a minute’s thought to cyclists.

At least my anger was warming me up.  The weather improved and the route was brilliant.  Really good scenery.  I rode through Errogie and Whitebridge then up to a summit which I remembered.  Last time here, a coach load of German tourists had cheered my brother and me as he just beat me over the crest.

The Great Glen

The plunge down to Fort Augustus was great fun.  I bought snacks and then headed off along the towpath of the Caledonian Canal.  The riding was easy and the views were gorgeous.  In a car, I have never enjoyed the Great Glen.  NCN 78 is totally different.  Great riding, although the person who designed the gates can’t have had any experience with a loaded touring bicycle.  The gates require lifting the bicycle a good eighteen inches.  I guess they had unladen mountain bikes in mind.

I really enjoyed the ride down to Caol.  Heavy traffic in Fort William needed a lot of care but the last couple of miles down Glen Nevis to the campsite were quiet.  The campsite has improved and grown a lot since my first visit, when a drunken Scot had called, “Lochaber no more,” once every two minutes for the entire night.  The person in reception said they take behaviour seriously nowadays.  Maybe they do.

My thanks to the musical excellence of Snarky Puppy and to the quaffability of Hobgoblin for making this reminiscence possible.